Golden (Cadac-an) River |
Experience a rustic ‘rural
life’ characterized by simple homes and lots of verdant scenery in the
southwestern part of Samar. It is not cosmopolitan, but in every respect, it has all the scenic – and cultural variety you would
expect from a town. That is my hometown Basey, a coastal town about 28
kilometers away from Tacloban City which could be reached from Tacloban by a
45-minute land trip passing through the picturesque San Juanico Bridge. It is
bounded by the town of Sta. Rita and Villa Real
in the North, Borongan and Marabut in the East, Tacloban
City in the West and San Pedro Bay in the South.
If we got by the legend of
Bungansakit, the settlers always remembered the place a “Mabaysay”, a beautiful
woman who inspired others. The settlers name it “Baysay”, later contracted to
Basay and Americanized into Basey. Basaynon have long been banking on their native
“banig,” 17th Century old church and the Sohoton Natural
Park to stake their claim
in the tourism industry and create more economic opportunities for the town.
The first settlement of
town was established near the mouth of the Golden (Cadac-an) river. The
settlers in the place called it Binongtu-an. Like other early coastal
settlements, it was not spared from plunder by the Moro marauders, which caused
the settlement to break and scatter. The bulk of the Binongtu-an settlers
traveled from Cadac-an to the smaller and winding Lawa-an River and settled on
its banks. Buscada eventually became the name of the place where the fleeing
people settled. As the settlers’ number increased, some of them moved to the
other side of the hill (Loyo).
Some of the settlers from
Binongtu-an traveling from Cadac-an river did not enter the Lawa-an River but
turned left after Capungturan Island and settled along a lofty shore where the
smaller river meets the sea, and what is called now Baybay and Campunao. These
places are shielded from Moro pirates from the open sea by the Capungturan and Jinamoc Islands. As the population increased,
the settlers spread from Baybay to Loyo, Lawaan, Palaypay, Mercado and Sulod.
The “timeline” of Basey:
- In 1591, the first Spanish mission recorded the flourishing settlement of Basey under the bishopric of Cebu.
- The parish was formally established in 1650.
- Fr. Cristobal Miralles of the Jesuit mission in Basey built a church made of wood only to be burned and looted of its treasures by Moro raiders on Corpus Christi Day in1663.
- In 1768, Basey was ceded to the Agustinians.
- The Franciscans ministered the town in 1804 and Fray Juan Navarro was appointed first Franciscan parish priest. The coral church built on a hilltop started as the present convent inside a fort, which overlooks San Pedro bay. The Franciscans named the church St. Michael the Archangel, in deference to the patron saint of the founding Jesuit missionaries.
- In 1845, Fray Domingo de Madrid repaired the church. About the same time, a cemetery in Barangay Buscada was built with a coral stone chapel inside it. Basaynons of stature in the community were entombed into shelves of its 10-foot thick, coral and limestone walls.
- In 1846 and 1856, the construction of the bell tower and Basey Church were completed.
- In 1880, the church was damaged by a storm and in 1894 Fray Vicente Gutierrez replaced the roofing with galvanized iron.
Sohoton
National Park
The more that I’m away from
Basey, the more that I appreciate the beauty when friends of mine telling me
about Sohoton. Our hometown is more of a wonderful sight rather than a sight of
poverty in that case. The Sohoton national park boasts of caves with
magnificent stalactites, stalagmites, and other rock formations, and of a
natural bridge, an arch-shaped rock that connects two ridges over the river
below. In 1935, in a move to preserve the natural beauty of the area between
the Barangays of Inuntan and Mabini, the farthest upstream village, the
government declared protected the 840-hectare Sohoton
Bridge National
Park, which could be reached through the Golden River.
During the Philippine-American War, in the late 1800s and early 1900s, Filipino
revolutionaries established a camp atop a cave, now called Panhulugan, at the
confluence of the Cadac-an and Sohoton rivers. From their vantage point, they
would throw bamboo spears and drop boulders into the river where an enemy boat
was passing by.
Within the park, there are
limestones, rockholes, weather-formed rocks and underground rivers aside from
forests and wild animals. The more prominent assemblage are the cathedral-like
caves of Panhulugan I and II, Sohoton and Bugasan. These caves are endogen
caves in angular limestone cliff. They support the base of other crack systems.
There are many flowstones and dripstones in the formations.
The Panhulugan Cave frames
itself in an angular limestone cliff forming a letter “H”. It's three main
cracks serve to wit its form. Its two parallel legs lying 50 meters apart and
connected at the entrance by a perpendicular crosspiece provide the said
formation. The cracks serve to be the hub opening for internal hallways and the
internal cave chambers measure some 49.2 feet high at the end of its leg. Its
cathedral immensity contains an interior that branch out into many
multi-levelled chambers and tunnels. Inside the cave were an infinite variety
of flowstones and rock formations which resembled familiar images of the
outside world. The cave is geologically active as evidenced by the constant
drips of water from stalactites. These caves were used as burial sites during
the 13th century.
The nearby Sohoton Cave is
another cathedral-like dome with a parabolic arch-type entrance of about
fifty-meters high. Its entrance is a flat door about twenty meters in width and
fifty-meters in length. On its ceiling hang spike-shaped crystalline
stalactites and rustic and cavernous walls and with stalagmites on the floor.
At the far end of the cave is an opening with a balcony overlooking the natural
swimming pool.
Another formation to see is
the Sohoton Natural Bridge. It is a huge arch-shaped rock that connects two
mountain ridges spanning the Sohoton
River with a vertical
clearance of 23 feet, about 8 meters in width and 40 meters in length. The
Stone Bridge is forested at its upper portion while on its underside hang heavy
karst formations of giant stalactites forming like swords and rockets. Tourists
had to take a one-hour motorboat trip to reach the national park.
Aside from the famous
“banig,” church and Sohoton, Basey is now becoming known for its pristine
beaches and rustic resorts in the outskirts of the town, which have made the
place a veritable getaway spot by some foreigners and backpackers. The most
popular of which is the Marabut Marine Park Beach Resort, which boasts of
towering rock islets with secluded beach coves. The water there is clear and
cool aquamarine, seemingly untouched by the growing populace, which is rich in
flora and fauna, truly a diver’s paradise. Another resort that is fast making a
name for itself is the Caluwayan Palm Island Resort, a 20-minute jeep ride from
Basey, which is surrounded by a breath-taking view of the of towering rocks
islands and islets with secluded coves and coral gardens.
Given all the scenery and
quaint simple life where you want it, when you want it, would feel right at
home. Our hometown, from its rich in cultural history to the dynamism and
creativity of its people… is truly our pride.
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